Archive for the ‘diy’ Category

Having great materials to work with is every woodworkers dream. Wood is part of nature though and needless to say unpredictable. The key to good craftsmanship is working with what you have. This means taking that imperfect piece of work and doing something with it.

You may discover that the piece of wood you have picked out as a blue gray tinge to it. This is most often seen in pine, or sycamore and sometimes holly. It?s caused by a mold where it may have been stored that was too warm or not enough ventilation. The only solution is to use that piece of wood where it?s not likely to be seen, perhaps on the bottom of your project. If you are going to be using a dark stain then it?s not going to be a problem for you.

It seems no matter how hard you inspected your wood, that when you go it home you still notice a bow in it. This is often the result of poor storage where moisture evaporation was evident. It?s difficult to work with pieces like this. You can cut it into smaller pieces or if worse comes to worse then nail or screw into place but make sure the bulge is facing out.

Usually if you are going to detect any splits or crack in the wood you are going to see it at the end and it will run along the grains. Drying the wood too fast has created this problem. If the cracks are too bad not only will it affect the look of the finished project, it could weaken it as well. The only solution here is to work around the cracks, or if possible cut that section off and discard it.

If wood is not dried correctly and stored properly than its going to warp and be difficult to work with. You will often find that this wood was cut from the center of the tree. You can cut the high spots away with your table saw if necessary.

Another type of warping is along the face of the board edge to edge. It means that one face dried faster than the other did. It?s difficult to work with wood like this. You could try adding some pressure and letting it dry that way.

A dark knot in the wood can enhance its overall look unless it?s loose. This is as a result of a surface dead branch. Ideally, you will want to glue it in place, and then apply putty to it.

Excessive sap residue evident on the board was caused when the tree was injured in some way prior to cutting. Either cut it off or scrape it and fill the indent where it was.

Dark streaks normally caused by dull planer blades. Either sand it or cut it down. Other minor problems may be breaks, a tight knot, and twisted ends from warping. A good lesson is to learn about the various types of woods and imperfections and this will guide you in what to look for how to avoid the problem or at the very least perhaps correct it.

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Whether we are into woodworking or not the majority of us know a little something about sandpaper even if it is just the name. Sandpaper is really just a very mild form of a chisel for example or any tool that reduces or alters the wood. The sandpaper is made of tiny coarse blades. Needless to say, they are very fragile and therefore wear down quickly.

One of the issues of using sandpaper is knowing which one to use for which job. To begin with, you have to determine whether you want commercial or industrial sandpaper. You will have less looking around for stores to buy it from if you are using the commercial grade as most hardware stores or home building centers keep it in stock. The industrial is more specialized and is an item most often used on the manufacturing line.

When you hear someone refer to sandpaper, you will most probably hear them refer to grit. All this is, is the way to identify what strength it is. Its referring to each of those little blades we talked about per inch. So the lower the number the coarser the sandpaper will be.

Now with a little understanding you need to determine which grit you need for which job. As we said, they are several to choose from and it will depend on the job you have to do. If you have heavy, sanding where you need to strip the paint or rough up the surface then you will need 40-60 coarse grit. Lighter sanding required for removing small imperfections means you would use an 80-120 medium grit. The final sanding before you are going to put your finish on dictates the use of 150-180 fine. Then for in between the stain coating you use the very fine, which is 220-240. If you have, some dust marks in-between these coatings you can use the extra fine grit 280-320 and then finally for some light scratches you can use the super fine 360-600 grit.

There are various backings used on the sandpapers such as low-grade fabric or Kraft paper. These are held on with bonding agents.

Going through the grits means working on your project from the heavier sandpapers up through to the lighter ones. Usually if all looks well you can finish off at the 150-180 grit although up to 200 if you are going to use a water base stain.

You may hear reference to open and closed coat sandpaper. Open coat has spaces between the grits which means less clogging and is more applicable for woodwork. Closed grit works better on metal and wood finishes but clogs easily.

There are four different types of sandpaper each having a specific use. Aluminum oxide most commonly used by woodworkers. Garnet also another favorite but is short lived. Then Silicon carbon more for steel, paint, plastic and fiberglass and finally ceramic which is the toughest of all of them. It is very expensive and is used predominantly for shaping and leveling.

Now you have some basic knowledge when it comes to what type of sandpapers there are and their best uses.

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Now that you have decided that you are going to build a deck, you will be spending a great deal of your time in the planning. Some of the things you will have to focus on are style, design, foundations and sizing just to name a few. There is one major thing you are going to have to decide upon is what kind of wood do you plan to use for your deck? The choice of wood that you will be making will affect how well your deck is going to come together. Not only will that, but the wood that you are going to use will affect the longevity of your deck. Picking out the wood that you will use for your deck will tell you whether it will be short-lived

Western red cedar is probably the most common wood you will run across for building a deck. The kind of wood you will start with will be a reddish brown in color and then, as the wood ages, it will turn to a lovely silvery gray. This type of wood splinters quite easily, but it will do well no matter what season you are in. It will also take a stain relatively well. One of the characteristics of Western red cedar is that it is a natural insect repellant. This wood makes an attractive looking deck and one that you will enjoy for many years. You may consider giving this wood a little more strength by using an extra-strong sealant on it.

Another type of wood that you may like to build your deck with is redwood. It behaves a lot like red cedar because redwood will turn from reddish brown to silver gray. However, there is one negative to this type of wood. If it remains untreated and left to the element of nature, the wood will blacken over time. However this wood resists rot pretty well. If you plan on treating the redwood with a sealer, you will find that this wood will be around for a reasonable length of time.

Another type of wood comes from South America and is known as Ip. It goes by two other names – Pau Lope and Ironwood. This wood resists rot as well as bugs and is very difficult to burn. You can get some sound relief when you go to do any barbecuing on your deck. You should take extra special precautions that your wood has been harvested responsibly in South America because there have been cases when harvesting wood from South American forests has raised a red flag.

When you are looking at different kinds of wood for your deck, you must want a wood that is resistant to rot and insects. Be sure to put Philippine mahogany on your list. This wood is very tough and tightly-grained hardwood and you will find that this wood is harvested from a good supply that can be replenished. Always look for the FSC trademark. To treat Philippine mahogany it may be a good idea just to let it age to a lovely silver. It can also be treated with marine oil so that you will get an effect that is not unlike teak.

Now, you must take some reasonable time to figure out exactly what you deck will look like. When finalizing your plans to build a deck, don’t overlook the importance of wood.

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