Posts Tagged ‘woodworking’

Having great materials to work with is every woodworkers dream. Wood is part of nature though and needless to say unpredictable. The key to good craftsmanship is working with what you have. This means taking that imperfect piece of work and doing something with it.

You may discover that the piece of wood you have picked out as a blue gray tinge to it. This is most often seen in pine, or sycamore and sometimes holly. It?s caused by a mold where it may have been stored that was too warm or not enough ventilation. The only solution is to use that piece of wood where it?s not likely to be seen, perhaps on the bottom of your project. If you are going to be using a dark stain then it?s not going to be a problem for you.

It seems no matter how hard you inspected your wood, that when you go it home you still notice a bow in it. This is often the result of poor storage where moisture evaporation was evident. It?s difficult to work with pieces like this. You can cut it into smaller pieces or if worse comes to worse then nail or screw into place but make sure the bulge is facing out.

Usually if you are going to detect any splits or crack in the wood you are going to see it at the end and it will run along the grains. Drying the wood too fast has created this problem. If the cracks are too bad not only will it affect the look of the finished project, it could weaken it as well. The only solution here is to work around the cracks, or if possible cut that section off and discard it.

If wood is not dried correctly and stored properly than its going to warp and be difficult to work with. You will often find that this wood was cut from the center of the tree. You can cut the high spots away with your table saw if necessary.

Another type of warping is along the face of the board edge to edge. It means that one face dried faster than the other did. It?s difficult to work with wood like this. You could try adding some pressure and letting it dry that way.

A dark knot in the wood can enhance its overall look unless it?s loose. This is as a result of a surface dead branch. Ideally, you will want to glue it in place, and then apply putty to it.

Excessive sap residue evident on the board was caused when the tree was injured in some way prior to cutting. Either cut it off or scrape it and fill the indent where it was.

Dark streaks normally caused by dull planer blades. Either sand it or cut it down. Other minor problems may be breaks, a tight knot, and twisted ends from warping. A good lesson is to learn about the various types of woods and imperfections and this will guide you in what to look for how to avoid the problem or at the very least perhaps correct it.

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Whether we are into woodworking or not the majority of us know a little something about sandpaper even if it is just the name. Sandpaper is really just a very mild form of a chisel for example or any tool that reduces or alters the wood. The sandpaper is made of tiny coarse blades. Needless to say, they are very fragile and therefore wear down quickly.

One of the issues of using sandpaper is knowing which one to use for which job. To begin with, you have to determine whether you want commercial or industrial sandpaper. You will have less looking around for stores to buy it from if you are using the commercial grade as most hardware stores or home building centers keep it in stock. The industrial is more specialized and is an item most often used on the manufacturing line.

When you hear someone refer to sandpaper, you will most probably hear them refer to grit. All this is, is the way to identify what strength it is. Its referring to each of those little blades we talked about per inch. So the lower the number the coarser the sandpaper will be.

Now with a little understanding you need to determine which grit you need for which job. As we said, they are several to choose from and it will depend on the job you have to do. If you have heavy, sanding where you need to strip the paint or rough up the surface then you will need 40-60 coarse grit. Lighter sanding required for removing small imperfections means you would use an 80-120 medium grit. The final sanding before you are going to put your finish on dictates the use of 150-180 fine. Then for in between the stain coating you use the very fine, which is 220-240. If you have, some dust marks in-between these coatings you can use the extra fine grit 280-320 and then finally for some light scratches you can use the super fine 360-600 grit.

There are various backings used on the sandpapers such as low-grade fabric or Kraft paper. These are held on with bonding agents.

Going through the grits means working on your project from the heavier sandpapers up through to the lighter ones. Usually if all looks well you can finish off at the 150-180 grit although up to 200 if you are going to use a water base stain.

You may hear reference to open and closed coat sandpaper. Open coat has spaces between the grits which means less clogging and is more applicable for woodwork. Closed grit works better on metal and wood finishes but clogs easily.

There are four different types of sandpaper each having a specific use. Aluminum oxide most commonly used by woodworkers. Garnet also another favorite but is short lived. Then Silicon carbon more for steel, paint, plastic and fiberglass and finally ceramic which is the toughest of all of them. It is very expensive and is used predominantly for shaping and leveling.

Now you have some basic knowledge when it comes to what type of sandpapers there are and their best uses.

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If you have any type of outdoor property and you have a garden of any size there is going to come a time when you have to have a shed.

Don’t forget that a shed isn’t just applicable to the summer months, it can be utilized to store all those winter items as well. Once you have determined that you are ready to invest in a shed then you will need to determine if you are going to build it yourself or erect a prefabricated one. Either one there is a little planning involved or you need to follow some steps to make your shed project a successful one.

First Step: Obviously, the primary purpose of your shed is going to be for storage. Then you may want a small amount of space to do some repairs or small hobbies. What you are considering right now is the size. Consider the large summer and winter items. Most certainly, you are going to want to store these in your new shed. Probably the biggest items will be your lawn mower and your snow blower. You need to think about both floor space and wall space. Many of your garden tools can be hung up.

The more you plan and organize the more you will be able to utilize the space. Now that you have an idea of just what you have to store and approximately the size of shed you need there are two more things to consider while you are still on this step. First, you need to determine just where the shed is going to be. If you have a specific amount of space available to you then your shed size is going to have to coincide with that area. Secondly, you need to think of the plan to get your shed a little bigger than what you need right now because no doubt your garden and outdoor inventory will grow.

Step Two: Once you start shopping for your shed you are going to be amazed at the models and styles. You need to constantly keep in mind your needs. If you are going to be working in the shed quite a bit then lighting is going to be important to you. You may want something with windows or preferably a skylight. You want to utilize your walls for handing items.

Step Three: You may have finally determined that you have found the perfect shed. It has everything you need. It?s the right size it has plenty of lighting and there?s room to grow. It?s ultra modern and sleek in design. There?s one problem your home happens to be an English style cottage and your entire landscape is English gardens. Somehow, the ultra modern just isn?t going to fit in with the over all look. You must keep this in mind during your shopping excursion, as it must blend in.

Step Four: Determine everything thing that you are going to need before you erect your shed. No matter whether it?s a build it yourself kit or a prefab. For example, you will need some type of foundation so you need to keep that in mind and any other extras that are applicable to your needs.

Step Five: Finally consider others. Don?t put your shed in a conspicuous place where its going to block a family members window for example. Think about your neighbors as well. I?m sure they would prefer to look out their window at your English garden rather than the back of your shed.

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